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How One Chef Is Fighting To Preserve A Cooking Tool As Old As Civilization Itself | Still Standing
How One Chef Is Fighting To Preserve A Cooking Tool As Old As Civilization Itself | Still Standing
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Subtitle (161)
0:01
this is an ancient cooking tool called a
0:04
Metate
0:07
women in Mexico have been using it for
0:09
over 7 000 years to prepare traditional
0:12
dishes
0:13
Evangelina Aquino Louise spends hours
0:16
grinding chilies and herbs for just one
0:19
batch of mole
0:20
[Music]
0:22
mole is a thick Rich sauce that comes in
0:25
many variations contains dozens of
0:27
ingredients and can take days to cook
0:30
it's also one of the most popular dishes
0:32
in Ivan Helena's restaurant La Cocina
0:34
Nana Vida
0:36
today she's preparing a rare kind of
0:38
mole called chichilo but it's not on the
0:42
menu because she only makes it for
0:44
people who are in mourning
0:46
numbers
0:54
Evangelina has dedicated her life to
0:57
preserving these kinds of traditions and
0:59
methods
1:01
but over the years she's watched cook
1:03
swap meet that days for blenders it even
1:05
turned to packaged sauces from the
1:07
supermarket
1:08
we visited Oaxaca known as the land of
1:11
the seven moles to see how the ancient
1:13
ways of preparing this classic Mexican
1:15
dish are still standing
1:22
Ivan Helena buys all ingredients fresh
1:24
at a local market
1:26
buenos dias
1:29
o negro
1:31
ancho chiles are kind of dried poblano
1:33
pepper that have a smoky flavor
1:36
Ed oregano
1:43
hasta luego
1:45
[Music]
1:47
back at her restaurant Evangelina preps
1:49
the onions garlic and sesame for
1:51
roasting
1:53
she's part of the zapotec indigenous
1:55
group that's lived in the Oaxaca Valley
1:57
for thousands of years
1:59
when someone dies family usually prepare
2:02
chichilo together Evangelina made this
2:05
batch especially for us to be able to
2:07
show the whole process
2:09
she puts the meat to boil in a handmade
2:11
pot because the beef will take the
2:13
longest to cook
2:16
in the state of Oaxaca there are seven
2:18
types of mole
2:19
and every family has their own variation
2:21
on the recipes
2:23
is
2:36
the ingredients on a clay Comal a smooth
2:39
griddle to bring out the Smoky flavors
2:43
the ancho chiles go first on high heat
2:46
foreign
2:57
when they get the perfect roast she
2:59
soaks them for about 30 minutes to
3:01
rehydrate and soften them
3:03
Evangelina wastes no time she Rose
3:06
everything quickly since this mole has
3:08
to be made faster than other kinds to
3:10
make it in time for a wake
3:15
the matate has been in evangelina's
3:17
family for 46 years
3:19
these grinding stones are carved whole
3:22
out of a quarry and they can weigh more
3:24
than 50 kilos
3:28
practices
3:35
some commercial chefs have switched to
3:37
blenders to make the process faster
3:40
but Evangelina says that hand crushing
3:42
the ingredients makes the paste smoother
3:44
and helps bring out intense flavors from
3:46
the spices
3:47
Qatar
3:52
no
4:01
this is the most physically taxing step
4:05
and it can take two hours just to grind
4:07
the ingredients
4:16
[Music]
4:25
yes
4:29
indigenous groups in mesoamerica have
4:32
used the matate to make mole since the
4:34
pre-hispanic time
4:36
it's believed to have originated either
4:38
here in Oaxaca or just to the North in
4:40
what's now known as the state of Puebla
4:43
the Spanish arrived in the 15th century
4:45
and people started mixing indigenous
4:47
ingredients like the native chilies with
4:49
other Foods the Spanish brought
4:52
today's mole is a fusion of pre-hispanic
4:54
and European cuisines
4:57
but the authentic way of making it has
4:58
dwindled in popularity
5:00
pre-made mole paste came on the market
5:02
in the 1940s
5:04
blenders became popular in the decades
5:06
that followed and they eventually
5:08
replaced the matate altogether
5:13
is
5:26
traditional mole still beats out the
5:28
kind made in a blender
5:30
Familia
5:43
lard is one of the final ingredients she
5:46
adds she melted into a pot and adds a
5:48
ground paste to fry
5:52
then beef broth and corn dough to make
5:54
the mole thicker
5:57
she stirs until the sauce is the perfect
5:59
consistency
6:02
Fiesta moles that are served at
6:04
celebrations like one called Colorado
6:06
have brighter and sweeter and some even
6:08
say happier tastes
6:11
but this is a funeral mole so it has a
6:14
more subdued and muted taste
6:17
Ivan Helena's grandmother taught her how
6:19
to cook mole when she was just seven
6:21
years old
6:22
at 20 she learned how to make chichilo
6:25
mole from the women in her community
6:28
is
6:43
the companionism
6:47
at first making chichila mole was a
6:49
heavy task for van halena
6:51
because it reminded her of loss
6:55
but when she realized she had a chance
6:56
to preserve and share her culinary
6:58
knowledge I took on a new meaning
7:12
traditional
7:14
is
7:16
[Music]
7:22
in 2017 she registered the brand
7:24
nanavida named after her grandmother
7:28
the exports from mole as well as
7:30
chocolate to the U.S and sells them
7:32
online
7:35
and evangelina's work is getting noticed
7:38
this year her chichilomule won the award
7:40
for the best ceremonial dish and another
7:42
for best decoration at a traditional
7:45
food festival in Oaxaca
7:48
a restaurant is open for tourist groups
7:50
and locals who want to eat the
7:52
traditional food
7:55
is important
8:09
[Music]
8:11
she hopes her children will fall in love
8:13
with cooking the same way she has
8:15
and if they do they have her recipe
8:18
and of course her matate is
8:54
foreign
8:56
[Music]
