Ancient wine grape helps Australian farmers save water

By Amelia Walters

Landline

Topic:Viticulture

Xynisteri grapes reduce water use by 75%.

In short:

An Australian researcher introduced Xynisteri grapes to Australia.

Xynisteri grapes save water and withstand heatwaves.

What's next?

Barossa Valley producers almost sold out of their first vintage.

An ancient grape variety is being harvested in South Australia's Riverland.

It reduces water bills and reconnects growers to their Mediterranean roots.

Yianni Koutouzis is trialling the ancient Cypriot variety Xynisteri.

Xynisteri is famous for its thick skin and drought tolerance.

The Xynisteri crop survived a 49-degree Celsius heatwave with little burning.

The drought-tolerant variety has come at the perfect time for the region.

Yianni Koutouzis's Xynisteri vines can go months without being watered.

Yianni Koutouzis says the grapes are resilient like Riverland farmers.

Yianni Koutouzis connects to his Greek ancestors through Xynisteri.

Xynisteri's root structure is three to four times the size of shiraz.

Yianni Koutouzis feels a surreal connection to his family's past.

Yianni's family has been farming in the Riverland for over 50 years.

Xynisteri offers an alternative to the wine industry in crisis.

Ancient origins, modern solutions

Xynisteri has over 5,500 years of history and originates from Cyprus.

Dr Alexander Copper introduced Xynisteri to Australia in 2018.

Dr Copper says we need to find international varieties that suit our regions.

Xynisteri was earmarked as a stand-out variety for South Australian soil.

Xynisteri grew well in the Riverland due to the soil and heat.

The Riverland's soil is similar to Cyprus's limestone-based soil.

Yianni Koutouzis is one of two growers in Australia trialling Xynisteri.

Some Australian wine regions grow cooler-climate varieties that require a lot of winter rainfall.

South Australia largely grows French varieties like shiraz and cabernet.

'Worrying' industry and climate

The future growing season temperature in South Australia is projected to increase by almost two degrees Celsius by 2070.

Dr Peter Hayman has been analysing the climate for decades.

The grapes will grow quicker and use more water due to the warmer climate.

Dr Peter Hayman says the biggest asset is the experience of farmers.

Perennial horticulture crops are vulnerable to water shortages.

Nothing is more vulnerable to water shortages than perennial horticulture.

Dr Peter Hayman says there are many complexities and solutions to the wine industry.

Water security is a main concern for wine grape growers.

Temporary water market prices have more than doubled in the past 12 months.

Wine oversupply and production exceeded sales in 2024-25.

Wine grape prices recently hit historic lows.

Yianni Koutouzis knows the reality of low grape prices first-hand.

Yianni Koutouzis's family has been farming in the Riverland for over 50 years.

Farmers are diversifying to drought-tolerant crops like Xynisteri.

The federal government's Future Drought Fund is expected to grow to $5 billion by 2028-2029.

Dr Hayman believes there is still hope for the wine industry.

It's great to have alternatives and diversity in varieties.

Barossa bottles Xynisteri for the first time

Over 450 bottles of Xynisteri have been packed in the Barossa Valley.

Paul and Mara Georgiadis have adapted to the Barossa's changing consumer trends and climate.

Xynisteri suits the Barossa Valley and can reduce water consumption.

The pair hope Xynisteri can reduce water consumption to half a megalitre per hectare.

The Xynisteri variety has expanded to over 600 vines in the Barossa Valley.

The original Xynisteri plantings remain separated and under net.

Paul Georgiadis can see the Barossa Valley evolving.

Shiraz will always have its place, but vines may change in the long term.

Xynisteri is comparable to pinot gris and pinot grigio with tropical flavours.

It is a change that Paul Georgiadis's Greek family would be proud of.

Paul and Mara Georgiadis picked 800 kilograms of Xynisteri in its first vinification.

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Light at the end of the tunnel

Xynisteri has instilled hope in producers amidst a tough time for the wine industry.

Yianni Koutouzis has a fresh perspective on the region's future and growing capabilities.

Dr Copper says Xynisteri is part of a solution, not the answer to everyone's prayers.

Yianni Koutouzis dreams of growing grapes like Xynisteri that will win gold medals.

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