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Why China Banned Weird Architecture

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Why China Banned Weird Architecture

Poly Matter
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0:00Gail Caddy was the owner of this tiny,  
0:03boutique hotel in the English countryside  when she came across a strange photo.
0:09It was a photo of her hotel.  It had the same white façade,  
0:14the same arched doorway, black  placard, and name — “Rock Point Inn.”
0:21…Except it wasn’t her hotel. Not quite. The one in  the photo was newly built; hers was 250 years old.
0:32She soon discovered that her entire building  — along with the fish-and-chips restaurant  
0:37next door — had been carefully reproduced,  brick-by-brick, on the other side of the planet.
0:44Unbeknownst to her, there were now two  Rock Point Inns: one in Lyme Regis,  
0:50England — population: 3,000 — and one in the  suburbs of Shanghai — population: thirty million.
0:58And the more she learned,  the weirder things became.
1:03This, it turns out, was just one corner of  a $300 million British-themed neighborhood.  
1:10There were bronze statues of Winston Churchill  and Princess Diana. There was an exact replica  
1:16of a Christian church in Bristol. And there  were red telephone booths imported from London.
1:23Here, less than an hour outside China’s largest  city, police officers wore royal guard uniforms.
1:31Even this was just the tip of the iceberg.  
1:35The British neighborhood was actually one  of nearly a dozen separate towns — each  
1:40designed, at great expense, to simulate the  experience of living in a different country.
1:46The German one, for example, is home to  Volkswagen’s Chinese headquarters and,  
1:51believe it or not, was built by the  son of Hitler’s chief architect.
1:56All across China, in fact, are  hundreds of miniature — and sometimes,  
2:01not so miniature — Amsterdams,  Paris’, Londons, and New Yorks.
2:07You can visit Britain’s famous Tower Bridge  — complete with two extra towers — in Suzhou.
2:14If suburban McMansions and  palm trees are more your style,  
2:18there’s a mock “Orange County,” outside Beijing.
2:21Hallstatt is a tiny, picturesque village in  the mountains of Austria. But you can visit  
2:27an exact replica near Guangzhou. The mayor  of the real town even paid a visit in 2012.
2:35Or perhaps you prefer to live in snowy Jackson  Hole, Wyoming without ever leaving Northern China.
2:42The list goes on… There’s a fake Louvre,  
2:45Chrysler Building, White House, and  Versailles — to name just a few.
2:50China probably has more Eiffel Towers  than anywhere else on earth. This one  
2:56looked a bit out of place at first,  but has since become more convincing.
3:02Clearly, these can’t all be the work of some  rogue city planner or eccentric millionaire.
3:08Something about the country’s political  and economic system unintentionally led  
3:13to dozens of independent, yet  identical, Frances across China.
3:19That “something” begins with  the way cities earn revenue.
3:24Local governments pay for most of  their own teachers and doctors and  
3:28police and fire fighters — as  they do in most of the world.
3:32Unlike most countries, however,  they aren’t allowed to collect  
3:36much of their own tax revenue —  most of that ends up in Beijing.
3:41This creates for each city an acute  dilemma: how to pay for everything.
3:46Luckily, they do have one powerful  weapon at their disposal: land. …All  
3:52of which is owned by the government, who  can sell it to developers for 100% profit.
3:59What this means is that, to stay in the black,  
4:01mayors have no choice but to choose  quantity over quality. Opening a giant  
4:07factory generates a massive windfall for the  city when it sells the land. But because it  
4:13doesn’t generate much ongoing revenue, it  serves little purpose after it’s built.
4:18Just to keep the lights on, the city has to keep  building, expanding outward at lightning speed.
4:26Of course, this only works if someone  is willing to buy all the land.
4:31But that, until recently,  hasn’t been much of a problem…
4:35Here, China had three big things going for it:
4:40One, the population was growing even  faster than developers could keep up.
4:45Between 1980 and 2000, 267,000 people were born in  China each and every week. That’s a new Buffalo,  
4:54New York, or St. Louis, Missouri every seven days.
4:59At roughly one child per household,  that’s a lot of new homes.
5:05Two: hundreds of millions  of families were moving from  
5:08dilapidated homes in the countryside  to shiny new apartments in the city.
5:13And three, even those who didn’t want to  become homeowners really had no choice.
5:20China’s Capitalist turn at the end of the  twenty century created lots of new wealth,  
5:25yet conspicuously few places to invest it.
5:29Sure, you could simply park  your money in the bank,  
5:32but the government artificially  kept interest rates at or near zero.
5:37You could take it to the stock market, but  you may not have much luck there either.
5:42The Shanghai Stock Exchange has been  more-or-less flat for the last decade.
5:48Finally, strict capital controls limit how  much cash you can bring out of the country.
5:54That leaves approximately one place for the  world’s largest middle class and the country  
5:58with one of the highest savings rates in  the world to store its wealth: housing.
6:04Until recently, Chinese real estate  was a no-brainer. You could stuff  
6:09RMB under your mattress and watch  it dwindle away or you could stick  
6:14it in the one certified money printing  machine — then undefeated for decades.
6:20All of this is to say: homes have  historically sold themselves in China!
6:26But it’s one thing to sell apartments in the heart  of Shanghai or Shenzhen — China’s New York and San  
6:33Francisco. It’s quite another to sell them in its  equivalent of the Jersey suburbs or Inland Empire.
6:41As cities were forced to sell land further and  further from their downtown cores, developers,  
6:47in turn, were forced to go to greater  and greater lengths to attract buyers.
6:52Yet China never experienced America’s  urban flight. Cities are still widely  
6:58associated with wealth and  glamor, not noise and crime.  
7:03Suburbs, therefore, are seen less as a  welcome escape and more as an unnatural exile.
7:11That’s where the Eiffel Towers come in.
7:15Real estate agents — famously skilled at  turning 200 square-foot studios into "cozy  
7:20urban sanctuaries” — likewise transformed “weird,  single-family homes in the middle-of-nowhere”  
7:26into the more aspirational promise  of “living the American Dream.”
7:31It’s actually quite clever…
7:34The buyers of these properties, remember,  are just looking for a safe place to store  
7:39their wealth. Since they aren’t actually  going to move here anyway, the practical  
7:44realities of living in a faux-7,000-year-old  Austrian village are relatively unimportant.
7:51And for developers, the European and  American themes are the perfect short-cut:  
7:57they offer a ready-built architectural template,  create a spectacle that attracts attention,  
8:04and allow them to capitalize on the  idealized image of an affluent “West.”
8:09Decades of rising home prices conditioned  a whole generation to see easy, guaranteed  
8:15returns. Every empty field they’ve ever  seen was eventually colonized by factories;  
8:22every housing complex soon sold out,  so why would these be any different?
8:29Something similar was happening in less desirable  third and fourth-tier cities across China.
8:36Say you’re the mayor of Chenzhou.
8:39Its population of 4.5 million would make  it one of the biggest metropolises in  
8:44Europe or the Americas. In China, it’s so  overlooked that it’s hard to find video of.  
8:52There are at least 44 larger Chinese cities.
8:56So, how do you put this  relative backwater “on the map?”
9:01Well, one way is to hand a famous architect  a blank check and tell them to go wild.
9:08Clearly, they understood these  instructions. China might just  
9:12be the world’s capital of “weird” architecture.
9:16There’s a building shaped like a bird in  flight, a pair of pants, a ring, three men,  
9:24eggs, a mountain range, the moon and the sun, an  octopus, a flower, spaceship, beehive, and forest.
9:36You name it and China probably has it.
9:40As a local bureaucrat, your incentives  were to drive short-term economic growth  
9:45and quickly make a name for yourself  before being rotated to a new city.
9:50Approving that splashy new project puts  your name in the newspaper. Besides,  
9:56you’ll be long gone by the time the  Orangatang-shaped hospital sits empty and unused.
10:03In other words, the more outlandish, the better.
10:07One overzealous official spent one third of his  city’s entire revenue building a replica of the  
10:13U.S. Capitol to serve as a government office.  Meaning, Communist Party cadres work every day  
10:20inside an architectural tribute to their country’s  greatest competitor. How’s that for soft power?
10:27Of course, when everyone tries to  stand out, no one does. Inevitably,  
10:33this ignites a full-blown “weirdness” arms-race.
10:37Now, to some, this is all just an amusing —  perhaps even endearing — feature of the Chinese  
10:43landscape. Sometimes you just stumble  into a random Stonehenge. Better than  
10:50row after row of dreary Soviet-era high-rises!
10:55Xi Jinping, however, is not among them.
10:59After rising to power, Xi saw his mission as  correcting for the excesses of China’s long reform  
11:05era — its rampant corruption, its uncoordinated  waste, and blind, “Western-obsessed” consumerism.
11:14“Weird” architecture was a symptom of all three.
11:18And so, in 2014, he “banned” it, in the vague,  
11:22jargon-heavy way Party officials  do — by calling on cities to  
11:27“strengthen their cultural confidence” and  “disseminate contemporary Chinese values.”
11:33And just like that, China’s “Las  Vegas” era was officially over.
11:39But there’s one place where China’s  early-2000s penchant for the opulent,  
11:44the colossal, and the garish truly lives on —  a sort of living museum of that earlier era.
11:52About 20 miles away from Hong Kong is another  “Special Administrative Region” called Macau.
11:59Macau is one of the most densely-populated and  most land-deprived cities on earth. So, naturally,  
12:06about 15 years ago, Las Vegas Sands’ Sheldon  Adelson — then America’s third-richest person  
12:13— decided it would make the perfect place to  plop down a brand new, car-centric casino strip.
12:20The Venetian Macau is the  largest casino in the world. And,  
12:24like its smaller Vegas counterpart,  includes an indoor gondola ride.
12:30Next door is The Parisian, complete —  you guessed it — with an Eiffel Tower.
12:35It’s one of the most surreal places I’ve ever  been — a fake Paris in a former Portuguese colony,  
12:42culturally, largely Chinese, but not quite,  built by an American billionaire. In fact,  
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