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How hat fashion has evolved throughout history - Alison L. Goodrum
How hat fashion has evolved throughout history - Alison L. Goodrum
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0:08
In 1937, renowned fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli
0:13
unveiled one of her most famous creations:
0:16
a black stiletto with a pink heel.
0:19
What made this seemingly ordinary piece so noteworthy
0:22
was that it was designed to sit on top of a woman’s head.
0:26
Created in collaboration with Salvador Dalí,
0:29
Schiaparelli’s bizarre shoe hat was celebrated as an iconic contribution
0:34
to the Surrealist art movement.
0:37
Humans have been fashioning caps since the dawn of civilization.
0:41
A simple bearskin cap from the Bronze Age is one of the earliest surviving hats,
0:47
discovered in the Alps alongside Europe’s oldest mummy,
0:51
Ötzi the Iceman.
0:53
But we’ve found images of hats that are much older:
0:58
some believe that the “Venus of Willendorf,”
1:00
a Paleolithic figurine made around 30,000 years ago,
1:04
is the earliest known depiction of woven headgear.
1:08
Hats aren’t just for keeping heads warm;
1:10
they can also be used to make political statements.
1:14
Take the pileus cap, a favorite among ancient Romans and Greeks.
1:19
In the Roman Republic,
1:20
pileus caps were given to previously enslaved people as a public sign
1:24
of their freedom
1:25
and came to symbolize the ideals of personal and political liberty.
1:30
In the 18th century,
1:31
American and French revolutionaries seemed to have conflated the pileus
1:36
with the very similar-looking Phrygian cap,
1:38
embracing the Phrygian as an emblem of their cause.
1:42
This is reflected in renderings of Marianne,
1:45
a personification of the French Republic, who often wears a red Phrygian.
1:51
Hats have also been an essential accessory for projecting status and power.
1:55
In Western Europe in the 15th century,
1:58
nothing conveyed royal excess quite like the hennin.
2:02
Popular among the women of the Burgundy Court,
2:05
these bejeweled headdresses were crafted from expensive silks
2:09
and included variations like a flat-topped design
2:13
and the daring double-coned escoffion.
2:16
Hat height was restricted according to social rank:
2:19
while princesses could sport meter-high hennins,
2:22
noblewomen were limited to much shorter styles.
2:25
And they weren’t without their critics;
2:27
hennins were often targeted by clerics and moralists
2:30
who found their flashy designs impious.
2:34
Nearly a century later, Suleiman the Magnificent,
2:37
the longest-reigning sultan of the Ottoman Empire,
2:40
became known for his bold military campaigns
2:43
and even more audacious headgear.
2:46
His grand bulb-shaped turbans
2:49
were adorned with sparkling sprays of diamonds or feathers.
2:52
His collection also included a grand four-tiered golden helmet,
2:56
though some historians suspect it wasn’t actually designed for wearing.
3:00
Rather, the crown was crafted to flaunt his immense power and wealth
3:04
to his rivals.
3:06
For other caps, the real story lies in their making.
3:09
The sleek British top hat was first introduced in the early 19th century
3:13
as powdered wigs fell out of fashion.
3:16
Originally crafted from the fur of animals like beavers,
3:20
hat makers would soak the material in vats filled with toxic mercuric nitrate
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to improve the felts quality and density.
3:28
But prolonged exposure to the chemical in poorly ventilated spaces
3:32
led many hatters to develop mercury poisoning,
3:35
suffering symptoms like irritability, slurred speech, memory problems,
3:40
and tremors.
3:42
The figure of the Mad Hatter,
3:43
immortalized in Lewis Carroll’s “Alice in Wonderland,”
3:47
is a popular reference to this devastating plight.
3:50
Thankfully, in the late 1800s,
3:52
as more people became aware of the dangers of mercury,
3:55
many countries began to ban its use.
3:58
Over the following century, top hats, bowlers, and bonnets
4:02
largely fell out of fashion as everyday wear,
4:05
but one cap proves that hats are still big business:
4:09
the baseball cap.
4:10
What began as a practical part of a baseball uniform
4:13
stepped off the field and onto the streets in the 1960s.
4:17
The cap’s cost-effective, adjustable design,
4:20
along with its easy integration of logos, badges, and trademarks,
4:24
has driven its mass commercialization.
4:26
In the United States, some estimate that baseball caps alone
4:30
make up around 80% of the entire hat market.
4:34
But as for the future,
4:35
who knows what type of hat will capture our hearts— and our heads— next.
